Few dishes spark as much heated debate among Australians as the humble chicken parmigiana. Is it "parma" (as Melburnians insist) or "parmi" (as Sydneysiders claim)? Should the chips be underneath or beside the chicken? Is ham an essential ingredient or a controversial addition? I embarked on a culinary journey between Australia's two biggest cities to settle the debate once and for all.
The Great Divide
For the uninitiated, a chicken parmigiana (or parma/parmi) is a pub classic featuring a crumbed chicken breast topped with tomato sauce, ham (sometimes), and melted cheese. It's typically served with chips and salad, and it's a staple on virtually every pub menu across Australia.
The rivalry between Melbourne and Sydney extends far beyond sports and coffee culture—it reaches deep into the heart of pub fare. Both cities claim to serve the superior parma, and locals are passionate about defending their hometown's honor.
A classic Melbourne-style chicken parma with chips on the side
The Research Method
To approach this investigation with proper scientific rigor, I established a set of criteria for judging each parma:
- Chicken quality: The chicken should be tender, juicy, and freshly crumbed.
- Crumb texture: The crumb coating should be crispy, not soggy from the toppings.
- Sauce-to-chicken ratio: There should be enough sauce for flavor but not so much that it drowns the crumb.
- Cheese melt: The cheese should be fully melted and slightly browned.
- Chip quality: Regardless of placement, the chips should be crispy and well-seasoned.
- Overall harmony: How well do all elements work together?
I visited five renowned parma venues in Melbourne and five in Sydney, spending a week in each city to thoroughly examine the offerings. I ate nothing but chicken parmas for two straight weeks—a sacrifice I was willing to make for culinary science.
Melbourne's Contenders
In Melbourne, the chicken parma is treated with reverence. Pubs pride themselves on their parma recipes, and there are even dedicated "Parma Nights" where the dish is offered at a discount. Here are the Melbourne venues I visited:
The Birmingham Hotel, Fitzroy
Known as one of Melbourne's parma institutions, The Birmingham serves a massive chicken breast that extends beyond the edges of the plate. Their parma features a thick layer of napoli sauce and perfectly melted cheese, with a controversial but delicious mustard-infused béchamel beneath the cheese layer.
Score: 9/10 - Points deducted only for the slightly overwhelming size that makes it difficult to finish.
The Napier Hotel, Fitzroy
Home of the infamous "Bogan Burger," The Napier also boasts an excellent parma. Their version includes high-quality ham and a house-made tomato sauce that has a hint of herbs and spice. The chicken is consistently juicy, and the chips are always crispy—served alongside, never underneath.
Score: 8.5/10 - A traditional approach executed nearly flawlessly.
The Imperial Hotel, CBD
The Imperial makes a parma with a distinctive cheese blend that includes not just mozzarella but also parmesan and a touch of blue cheese for extra flavor. Their version is slightly smaller but perfectly proportioned, with a crumb that maintains its crispiness despite the generous toppings.
Score: 8/10 - Innovative cheese blend wins points, but the blue cheese might not be for everyone.
The Exchange Hotel, Port Melbourne
The Exchange takes a gourmet approach with free-range chicken, San Marzano tomatoes in their sauce, and premium prosciutto instead of standard ham. The result is a more refined parma that still satisfies the pub food craving.
Score: 9.5/10 - Nearly perfect execution with high-quality ingredients.
The Cricketers Arms Hotel, Richmond
This Richmond institution serves a no-nonsense, classic parma that represents what most Melburnians think of when they crave the dish. Good quality chicken, perfect crumb-to-topping ratio, and consistently well-executed.
Score: 8/10 - Solid, reliable, and satisfying without being spectacular.
"A good parma is like a symphony—the chicken is the foundation, the sauce is the melody, and the cheese is the triumphant crescendo. When it all works together, it's magic."— Chef Michael, The Exchange Hotel
Sydney's Contenders
Sydney's approach to the chicken parmi (as they insist on calling it) tends to be more experimental, with venues often adding creative twists to the classic recipe. Here are the Sydney venues I visited:
The Lord Dudley, Woollahra
This English-style pub makes a parmi that stands out for its thick, juicy chicken breast and a crispy panko crumb that somehow stays crunchy despite the toppings. They serve their parmi with chips underneath—the controversial Sydney style.
Score: 8/10 - Excellent chicken quality but points deducted for soggy-bottomed chips.
The Courthouse Hotel, Newtown
The "Courty" serves a parmi with a twist—a spicy arrabbiata sauce instead of standard napoli. The kick of chili adds a nice dimension, and they're generous with the cheese, which creates a perfect golden crust.
Score: 8.5/10 - Innovation that actually works, though purists might object.
The Australian Heritage Hotel, The Rocks
Taking an upscale approach, this historic pub uses organic chicken and tops their parmi with premium leg ham and buffalo mozzarella. The result is a more sophisticated version that still delivers the comfort food satisfaction.
Score: 9/10 - Elevated ingredients create a memorable experience.
The Royal Hotel, Leichhardt
Influenced by the area's Italian heritage, The Royal makes a parmi with a rich, slow-cooked tomato sauce that contains a hint of red wine and herbs. They also add eggplant to their stack, creating an interesting hybrid between a traditional parmi and eggplant parmigiana.
Score: 7.5/10 - Creative but strays from the classic formula.
The Henson, Marrickville
The Henson offers a choice between a traditional parmi and a "naked" version that's grilled rather than crumbed for the health-conscious. Their traditional version features a house-made sauce with visible chunks of tomato and herb, and they use a combination of mozzarella and cheddar for the topping.
Score: 8/10 - Solid execution with nice textural elements in the sauce.
A Sydney-style chicken parmi with chips underneath and a side salad
The Verdict: Regional Differences
After consuming 10 chicken parmas in 14 days (and gaining 3 kilos in the process), I noticed some clear patterns in the regional approaches:
Melbourne Style
- Always called a "parma"
- Chips served beside the chicken
- Ham is non-negotiable
- Emphasis on traditional execution
- Larger portions
- Napoli sauce tends to be smooth and uniform
Sydney Style
- Always called a "parmi"
- Chips often served underneath
- Ham is sometimes omitted or substituted
- More likely to include creative variations
- Slightly smaller, more manageable portions
- Sauce often includes visible herbs and chunks
And the Winner Is...
Based on my comprehensive (and delicious) research, I must declare Melbourne as the winner of the chicken parma debate, with The Exchange Hotel's version taking the crown as Australia's best chicken parma.
What gives Melbourne the edge is the consistency and reverence for tradition. While Sydney's creative approaches produced some delicious meals, the fundamental elements of a great parma—crispy crumb, juicy chicken, well-balanced toppings, and never putting chips underneath where they get soggy—were more reliably executed in Melbourne venues.
That said, The Australian Heritage Hotel in Sydney came very close to taking the top spot, proving that geography isn't destiny when it comes to parma perfection.
The Chips Controversy
I must address the most contentious aspect of the parma experience: chip placement. After careful consideration, I can definitively state that chips should NOT be placed underneath the parma. This isn't just personal preference—it's a matter of textural integrity. Chips under a hot, sauce-laden chicken schnitzel inevitably become soggy, destroying their essential crispiness.
Sydney venues that insist on this arrangement are doing their otherwise excellent parmis a disservice. The best approach, as demonstrated by Melbourne's finest establishments, is to serve the chips alongside the parma, where they remain crispy throughout the meal.
Final Thoughts
While Melbourne takes the crown in the parma debate, both cities offer exceptional versions of this Australian pub classic. The regional differences reflect broader cultural approaches to food—Melbourne's respect for tradition versus Sydney's innovative spirit—and that diversity is something to celebrate.
The great chicken parma debate may never be fully settled, and perhaps that's for the best. It gives us all an excuse to continue the delicious research indefinitely. And whether you call it a parma or a parmi, there's one thing all Australians can agree on: it pairs perfectly with a cold beer.
